Skip to main content

Weddings in Romania

Wedding season, like the highly anticipated cherry season in Romania, starts around the middle of May. Within a month, it is a fact of life. Much like the 'very, very, very, sweet cherries' advertised at farmer's markets, brides, along with their wedding parties, also start to pop up all over the country. The parade continues all the way through to the end of summer, thus outlasting the short-lived cherry harvest.

Although I've attended several Romanian weddings, enough to 'get the gist', these observations are partly fueled by the readily available bottles of Jack Daniels, wine, and the occasional tuica, without which no Romanian wedding is complete.

You must first understand that Romanian weddings fall into one of two categories: for the couple's friends and family, or for the couple's parents and friends. There is a distinction here and, keep in mind, it's almost impossible to combine the two.

The former tend to be smaller weddings, in quaint - maybe even unique - venues. It's more than likely that the entertainment is provided exclusively by a DJ. The food may be a little more atypical (we'll get to that), as are the outfits, there is a photographer but maybe it's a friend, and there is rarely an official videographer. There are no choreographed traditional dances or other similar 'surprise moments'. Music is anything from the Bee Gees to Aerosmith, to David Guetta; it's lively and peppy, and maybe even tacky, but it gets the people going. Everyone comes to have a good time, and they usually do. 'Everyone' consists of close family and a wide circle of friends all mingling, drinking, and dancing. It gives the wedding more of a party vibe as opposed to the heavier, formal, soiree atmosphere that the other type of weddings engender. The total number of guests sits around the 100 mark and the revelers are nearer the couple's ages than to their parents's. It's as if each of the newlyweds invited his and her friends to their birthday party and everybody showed up to party.

This sounds like a 'normal' wedding in the US or Canada, but it's borderline rebellious in Romania.

Which brings us to the other kind of wedding.

These are expansive (and expensive) affairs - parents usually play a significant role in organizing them - counting thirty or so odd tables (300+ guests) in palatial looking venues. A live band does the honours most of the night. Sometimes a DJ plays second fiddle (but is never the main act as that would denote 'low effort' from the hosts). There are often a couple of photographers and a videographer with a crane rig, usually positioned just off  to the side of the dance floor, to capture the 'feel' of the party. Sometime between the aperitif and the first course, a professional troupe will provide a 'special moment' in the form of a tango, popular dance, or salsa show. The music is 80% Romanian popular music, because this is the type of wedding that caters to people in another generation, with different musical tastes. They wouldn't know what to do with Lil' John's "YEAH" but they love a good Hora and anything where violins, flutes, and accordions play together. This doesn't help if you're under 50 or not Romanian.
The Hora is special because it is a closed-circle dance simple enough that anyone can participate. You basically hold hands with the partner on either side of you and and go around in a circle until you run out of steam. The rest of the time it's either eighties Romanian music, the kind of synth-harmonica dominated melody you might hear in the background of indie films, where the protagonist drinks himself to oblivion in some dingy dive, or other slow jams that have elsewhere been forgotten. Here they are nostalgia pieces. Older couples hold on to each other, dancing stolidly, like moving (but not so much, living) monuments to Romania's grey days of communism.

The question is, why are these types of weddings still popular, and why do young couples put up with so much interference from the parents? The answer is, obligations.

A Romanian will attend many a wedding in his or her lifetime. At every wedding, before taking their leave of the bride and groom, the guests hand over a plic, a cash-filled envelope. That's the wedding gift; no cutlery sets, no wedding registries here. It's an important part of every wedding. So much so, that a couple's parents are likely to have lists going back to the 1970s indicating how much they gave to others' weddings and how much they received at their own. These are the obligations.

At the end of the day, this is what weddings are about in Romania. You pay and (when you get married) you get paid. There is a going rate to be taken into account, about 800 - 1000 Lei per couple these days, and it typically covers the costs of the wedding dinner. Depending on the quality of the experiences offered, there may be a little or a lot left over, enough to put a down payment on a car, apartment, or house. This is what gets the young couple started in life. It's not very romantic, but who said obligations can't be practical?


Some common elements:

Plenty of food. Always a starter plate followed by two or three course and the wedding cake. At the smaller venues, the food may be more experimental, but the larger weddings have almost the same menu every time, right down to the shape of individual appetizers. These tend to be little cheese pastries, cold cuts, and vegetable spreads. There is usually a fish course afterwards, then another warm entree - chicken, maybe duck - and then the main is usually pork roast - the famed friptura, which sometimes has its own theme music, too.
Sometimes, late into the wedding and after the cake, sarmale are served. Seems strange to eat cabbage rolls an hour after the cake, but it's a good pick me up snack for those who are still around.

The wedding cake always makes its own entrance, accompanied by music and sparklers, and maybe smoke effects. The couple cut and eat the first slice, as per the international tradition.

Some areas of the country (ie. Transylania) do day weddings. It all kicks off around noon and ends by around 10 pm. This is incomprehensible to people from Moldova or Bucovina where weddings start no earlier than 7 pm and only wrap up at dawn on the next day.

The Hora. Can't have a wedding in Romanian without at least one interpretation of this popular dance.

Candy bars are popular, as are fruit bars, where guests self-serve anytime during the reception.

Drinks aplenty. Either on the table for self-service, an open bar, or provided by servers, guests at Romanian weddings have a difficult time going home sober.

A Romanian wedding is often also what you make of it. If you want to dance all night, nobody will mind. Likewise if you prefer to sit at your table just to drink and eat your fill. Most people though, prefer a mix of both.




Image source: http://byclaudiungureanu.ro/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/nunta-traditionala-romaneasca.jpg

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

10 Reasons Why Romania is Better Than America

Really? Yes, really. Let me count the ways. In America you can get everything you've ever dreamed of: GameBoy, Sega Genesis, plants that look like faces , and more.  Maybe if you work really hard long hours at the job you hate (but that you tell everybody you love lest you appear to be a miserable person), you can even get a flat panel home theater TV that takes up half your basement (on credit, of course). Awesomeness!! In America you can always be sure to be on top of the latest fad, such as devil sticks or Tamagochi and you will be first to read bestsellers like The DaVinci Code and Fifty Shades of Crap literature. Basically there are thousands of ways of feeling accomplished -or pretending that you are - you just need to be there to catch all these wonderful trends on time! I know what you're thinking, how can Romania possibly top all that considering America is also the land of Root beer floats and Antoine Dodson? Everything's been done in America, that's ...

Is Cluj The Best City On Earth?

It's a question I ask myself at times. Let's put it this way; I've been around. Maybe not all around the world, but halway-ish maybe. Sailed the canals of Amsterdam, biked from one end of Paris to the other, took the train from Budapest to Berlin, drove the 405 in LA, and yeah, I even rode a hay cart back in the day. But other than enjoying all these forms of transportation, I got to enjoy the places I visited. I don't know about you, but when I visit a place I always ask myself,  'would I live here?' While the answer is often 'yes, why not', the only place I moved to was Cluj. Cluj, how do I love thee, let me count the ways: 1. I love your smell. It's like earth, and air, and city. I will never forget my first day here, when I  walked out of the arrivals building at the airport and breathed in your smell. Spring. You're the city of eternal Spring. On a balmy day, it's what you smell like, even if it's December, or August. 2. I l...

Are Romanian Women The Most Beautiful In The World?

More than once, I was asked to write about the beauty of Romanian women, but... I have no words. Besides, I may be biased, but clearly it's a rhetorical question. However, there is no shortage of Facebook pages dedicated to the subject. Image: A typical Romanian woman, Madalina Ghenea.

10 More Reasons Romania is Better Than America

I get it. The US is special. I hate to say it, especially as a Canadian, but it is. But it's mostly special because of the America that it used to be. The idea of America is special. There was, once, an American Dream within the reach of any hard working man. It was a country that offered unprecedented freedoms and opportunities unmatched by any other. The great melting pot was about inclusion towards one common goal, it was not divisive, individualistic and driven by a Bergeron-esque vision of 'equality'. Assets were not based on decades-long lines of credit, and salaries kept up with cost of living increases. I could go on about 'the way things used to be' but you can look it all up if you're interested. If you live there, you should be. The reality in America is different now. Sure, it's still the land of plenty. But the plenty is not all good. Plenty of debt, plenty of poverty, plenty of obesity, plenty of civil unrest coupled with plenty of he...

10 Things Romania Does (A Bit) Differently - Part 1

A few days ago, after walking into a grocery store, I couldn't help noticing I was in a state of trepidation. The reason? I'd walked in with my gym bag, purposely avoiding the security guy at the entrance. I felt his eyes must be following me and that a loud, "Hey, you!" would ring out the moment I turned into an aisle. It turns out that the longer you live somewhere, the more you get used to it. A truism, of course. What is not immediately apparent is that this isn't necessarily a good thing, especially when you find that you've become used to something you may have found, at some point in the past, in another place, entirely unacceptable. This is why, now that I've crossed over the honeymoon period of my move to Romania, I find my enthusiasm for life here wanes when, for the 286th time, I  am forced to walk into a supermarket through the designated entrance point, even if an empty checkout is much closer and no less accessible. Then, upon entry, a gr...

You Can't Plan a Romania Road Trip, But You Should Anyway

I started writing this post in September 2014, not long after coming back from vacation. I dropped it because I got sick of going through the hundreds of pictures we took just to pick the perfect ones for this post. But, like a seed once planted, it needs some water and the right conditions to flourish. In my case: an email from a reader, asking me about road-tripping through Romania, and the chance to lift this weight off my back. So here it is, a summary of one Romania road trip, from Cluj and back. The Itinerary ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2,656 Kilometers. 188 Liters of gas. 2,919 RON. That's more or less the tally for the Romania road trip I took with my roomie/wife Roxana. We could have booked an all-inclusive vacation to Greece, Turkey, or Bulgaria at about the same cost, but how could we resist a road trip? A unique waterfall , the ' tunnel of love ', the best dri...

What I Learned About Driving In Romania

I get it now. I understand Romanian drivers and their follies. It's something I thought would never happen. All it took to shape me into a Romanian road rage machine was one month of driving around Cluj and a 400 km round trip. I'm kidding about the rage part. The idea of driving in Cluj was intimidating. Last time I'd driven manual shift was almost ten years ago when a co-worker asked me to drive her and her newly purchased, Pontiac Firefly  home because she had no idea how to do it. So of course I stalled that little bastard all over the place. Little surprise that the idea of driving along busy and narrow European streets was unappealing - especially after years of driving automatic on wide, North American roads. But I managed. Stalled an average of once per trip during the first week, and then a couple of times in the second week, and now, a little over a month later, I sometimes stall at stoplights when I forget I'm driving stick and leave it in gear when I rel...

Why Romanians Don't Like Romanians

To my knowledge, this national self-loathing is a uniquely Romanian experience. Maybe we share it with some of our neighbours, but I doubt it. I've never seen a people dislike their own as much as the Romanians. This is going to be highly generalized, but as with most things I write here it's rooted in personal experience and observations. Don't hate the player, hate the game. 1. Romanians like the exotic, to be Romanian is the antithesis of what it means to be exotic. 2 . Romanians are often prejudiced. The thought process goes something like this: If you're Romanian you're probably bereft of interesting experiences and financially limited. You're from 'the-worst-country-on-earth', after all. If  you're well off, then you're just a rich asshole (probably a thief, too). Either way, your Romanian-ness ensures you're seen as a person with limited horizons who likely can't offer anything new or different. If you're Western Europe...

10 Things Romania Does (A Bit) Differently - Part 2

Most lists don't begin at number 6, so if you want to start at the beginning, head over to Part 1 . 6.  The Clothes Dryer The mighty clothes dryer, a staple appliance in just about every North American home, is essentially non-existent in Romania. While it isn't suspiciously regarded as a harbinger of death, as is the A/C unit, it takes up a lot of space and consumes plenty of energy, both of which come in short supply relative to Romanian preferences. Besides, if everyone had a dryer, then balconies, clothes lines, and drying racks would take up space for no good reason, and doing the laundry would be an all too efficient endeavour (generally considered bad taste in our neck of the woods).  Of course dryers do exist, usually on a steam-drying system, sometimes in a 2-in-1 washer/dryer combination (which requires no external vent or filters), but it's nonetheless a long-forgotten luxury for many a nostalgic expat. 7. Sidewalk Parking I could write several blog post...

Here Is Why Romania's Future Is Bright

The festival is only in its second edition, but following last year's inaugural event, Electric Castle has stirred up enough buzz to attract visitors from beyond Romania's borders. Walking around the festival grounds I had the impression that every other group was comprised of foreigners speaking Hungarian, English, German, or French. And judging by the license plates in the parking lots, every county in Romania was well represented. While there's plenty to be said about the artists and the music, there's something else I want to discuss in this post. When you think "music festival", the image that comes to mind is that of overly excited youth on a drug and alcohol infused rampage, laying waste to everything in their path. Maybe it has something to do with the way festivals like to promote themselves; these are basically the images that stand out on most 'Official Aftermovie' videos from major music festivals. But obviously the experience is defined...